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西服定做淺談西褲的結(jié)構(gòu)設(shè)計(jì)中后襠的結(jié)構(gòu)

來(lái)源：北京紳凱服裝瀏覽：8 【字體：大中小】發(fā)布日期： 2017-10-17 10:30:46 打印

襠的大小是否合適？關(guān)鍵是在后襠，后襠是否合適？關(guān)鍵是打開(kāi)褲襠，因?yàn)橐d是從后襠到經(jīng)線的結(jié)構(gòu)。開(kāi)襠尺寸，按慣例約為臀部的1/10，所以開(kāi)襠的寬度設(shè)計(jì)，都在手上10-12厘米，它是從后襠弧形坡（臀部位置）向下延伸，直到前襠和前襠，形成前后襠兩端的尺寸。

西服定做淺談西褲的結(jié)構(gòu)設(shè)計(jì)中后襠的結(jié)構(gòu)

它的功能不僅是保證前后襠連接，操作自如，而且要對(duì)臀部的大小進(jìn)行跨襠尺寸的過(guò)渡，所以襠的大小、弧度都要注意合適。開(kāi)襠挖過(guò)大，會(huì)增加緊襠開(kāi)襠挖潛力度不到位，就會(huì)造成勾襠，挖的大小根據(jù)基地的經(jīng)驗(yàn)，最好是在2.2—2.5厘米，或從臀圍線和直線開(kāi)襠寬，在1／2和1／3埋弧的中心（見(jiàn)圖8）。

這條路弧可能看起來(lái)不太長(zhǎng)，但為了保持眼飾品和人體的一致性，還可以將工藝造型的褲子所特有的輪廓線所需要的各種形狀特征進(jìn)行探索，從實(shí)踐中，很好地掌握起弧線。

后襠的襠、頂、坡的曲線。背襠的坡度，它是臀部向腰部的向后，然后是愛(ài)麗絲，下襠，所以背襠的坡度，也必須在穩(wěn)定的規(guī)律下。襠坡練習(xí)后，以下是常見(jiàn)的：以身體中線和臀部底線（橫襠）為基點(diǎn)，如7厘米8厘米見(jiàn)方，均為臀部位，

作為基礎(chǔ)和后襠坡（見(jiàn)圖表9）在腰線，前褲頭的前身，后為L(zhǎng) / 2座坡（見(jiàn)圖10。）；跨襠是一條水平線，開(kāi)襠寬為出發(fā)點(diǎn)，100度角，與后襠坡（見(jiàn)圖11），這種方法相對(duì)簡(jiǎn)單、適用。

Is the size of the crotch appropriate or not? The key is in the back crotch, the back crotch is appropriate or not? The key is to open the crotch, because the crotch is the structure of the back crotch from the warp to the weft direction. Open crotch size, according to the routine it is about 1 / 10 of the hips, so open crotch width design, are in the hands of 10-12 cm, it is from the back crotch arc slope (hip position) extending down, straight to the front and front crotch is formed around the crotch cross end size.
Its function is not only to ensure that the front and back crotch connection, operation freely, and is responsible for the size of the hip to cross crotch size transition, so the crotch size, arc should pay attention to fit. Open crotch dig through the large, it will increase the potential of tight crotch, open crotch dig degree is not in place, it will cause the hook crotch, dig the size according to the experience of the base, preferably in 2.2--2.5 cm, or from the hip line and open crotch width for a straight line, to the center of the 1 / 2 and 1 / 3 depth arc (see chart 8).
This road arc may seem not too long, but to maintain consistent eye ornaments and the human body, but also can shape the process style trousers of the unique contour lines needed to explore characteristics of various shape from the practice, a good grasp of the arc formed.
The curve of the crotch, the top and the slope of the back crotch. The slope of the back crotch, it is the hip to the waist of the backward, up and then Alice, lower crotch, so the slope of the back crotch, must also be in the stability of the law. After the crotch slope practice, the following are common: after the body midline and hip bottom line (transverse crotch) as the base point, as 7 cm 8 cm square, both for hip position,
As the base and back crotch slope (see chart 9) to the predecessor of the pants in front of the waist line, head, backward for a L / 2 seat slope (see Figure 10.); to cross crotch is a horizontal line, with open crotch width as the starting point, 100 degree angle, and the back crotch slope (see Figure 11), this method is relatively simple and applicable.

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